Grooming & Coat Care
Contents
Overview
Dog Grooming Guidelines for Healthy Skin and Coat
Grooming is one of the simplest ways to support a dog’s skin and coat health. Brushing, bathing, nail trimming, and even dental care all affect how comfortable a dog feels in their body. A good grooming routine helps prevent matting, reduces irritation, supports the skin’s natural protective barrier, and gives you a regular opportunity to notice changes early.
In other words: grooming is not just about appearance. It’s a form of necessary preventive care.
Grooming Should Match Coat Type
The biggest mistake people make is assuming grooming rules are universal. Dogs have different coat structures, different shedding patterns, and different skin sensitivities. What helps one dog can harm another.
For example:
- Some coats shed naturally and mainly need brushing support during shedding seasons.
- Some coats don’t shed normally and need brushing + trimming to prevent tangles and mats.
- Some coats rely heavily on natural oils and can become dry and irritated with frequent bathing.
- Some dogs have sensitive skin and react strongly to shampoos, fragrances, or aggressive brushing.
Important Doodle Coat Care Disclaimer
“Doodle coat” is not one coat type. Even within the same breed mix — and sometimes even within the same litter — dogs can have coats that behave completely differently. Some doodles mat easily and need frequent brushing and professional grooming. Others have looser coats that are easier to maintain. Many coats change as the dog matures.
So instead of grooming based on the label (Goldendoodle / Bernedoodle / Labradoodle), the goal is to groom based on what the coat actually does:
- Does it tangle quickly?
- Is it dense near the skin?
- Does it trap moisture?
- Does it shed, or keep dead hair trapped in the coat?
At-Home Grooming vs Professional Grooming (What You Can Do, and When to Get Help)
Most dogs benefit from both at-home grooming and professional support. The balance depends on coat type, matting risk, and how comfortable the dog is with handling.
At-Home Grooming Is the Foundation
At-home grooming prevents problems from building up. It also helps dogs stay comfortable between professional appointments. At-home care typically includes:
- regular brushing and detangling (frequency depends on coat type)
- wiping paws and checking between toes
- checking ears and skin for odor, redness, or irritation
- occasional bathing or spot-cleaning when needed
- nail trimming
- basic dental care (brushing + mouth checks)
For many dogs, consistent home grooming is more important than frequent baths. Brushing is what prevents mats, distributes oils, and reduces trapped debris.
Professional Grooming Is Often Necessary When…
Professional grooming becomes especially helpful when:
- the coat grows continuously and requires trimming to stay functional
- the dog has dense curls/waves with high matting risk
- undercoat management is difficult at home
- the dog is sensitive to restraint by regular caregivers
- the dog’s health or mobility makes grooming harder and less safe
Professional grooming is also useful for families who want to avoid the “crisis grooming cycle,” where grooming only happens once mats are already painful. For high-maintenance coats, professional care works best when it’s paired with at-home brushing.
Dog Coat Types and Grooming Needs
Dogs have a wide range of coat types because humans have selectively bred dogs for different traits over time. Some coats were favored because they helped dogs tolerate cold, shed water, or move through brush. Other coats were bred for appearance, low shedding, or specific textures. Over generations, these choices shaped the structure of the hair itself — including how fast it grows, whether it sheds easily, how much undercoat it produces, and how well it holds oils or moisture.
Those coat traits are not just cosmetic. They affect how easily a coat tangles, how well it insulates, how much dirt or allergens it traps, and how sensitive the skin becomes when grooming is too frequent or too aggressive. That’s why dog grooming guidelines can’t be one-size-fits-all. A routine that keeps one dog comfortable may cause irritation, dryness, matting, or overheating in another.
Even within the same breed, grooming needs can vary. Two dogs with the same breed label may have different coat density, texture, skin oil balance, or sensitivity. This is especially true for mixed breeds — including “doodles.” A doodle’s coat can range from straight to wavy to tightly curled, and it may change as the dog matures. Dogs from the same litter can even end up with different coat behaviors. The most helpful question is not “what breed is this dog?” but “what does this dog’s coat actually do?”
The chart below breaks down common coat types and what they usually require — including what can realistically be done at home and what often goes better with professional help. Use it as a starting point, then adjust based on your dog’s coat behavior, lifestyle, and comfort with grooming.
| Coat Type | Breed / Mix Examples | Typical Traits | At-Home Grooming Focus | When Professional Help Is Useful | Common Mistakes | Skin & Coat Health Considerations (Why it matters) |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Double Coat (shedding) | Siberian Husky, Golden Retriever, German Shepherd, Samoyed, Akita | Dense undercoat + longer outer coat; heavy seasonal shedding | Brush regularly; increase brushing during seasonal sheds; comb + undercoat rake carefully | Blow-outs/deshedding during heavy shed seasons; sanitary trims; nail trims | Shaving the coat, brushing only the topcoat, skipping grooming until shedding is extreme, not drying thoroughly after swimming | Undercoat can compact and trap moisture/allergens. Coat structure helps regulate temperature and protect skin. |
| Single Coat (short, shedding) | Beagle, Boxer, Doberman, Dalmatian, Pit Bull–type dogs | Short coat; sheds evenly year-round; skin is more exposed | Weekly brushing (rubber curry/soft brush); bathe as needed; frequent wipe-downs often work | Nail trims; ear care; occasional bath/skin support | Overbathing, using harsh/fragranced shampoos, assuming “short coat = no grooming,” ignoring dandruff/odor changes | Short coats show skin irritation quickly (redness, flakes). Oil balance can be disrupted by excessive bathing. |
| Long Single Coat (shed + tangle risk) | Collie, Afghan Hound, Setter-types, Papillon, some Spaniels | Longer hair; sheds and tangles, especially in friction zones | Brush several times/week; comb behind ears, collar line, armpits, feathering; trim paw pads | De-shedding + trimming for hygiene; help with early mat removal | Only brushing the surface (not getting down to skin), waiting until mats are visible, skipping friction zones | Tangles tighten into mats near skin. Mats trap moisture and can hide irritation or parasites. |
| Non-shedding / continuously growing coat | Poodle, Bichon Frise, Portuguese Water Dog, Maltese, some doodles | Hair grows continuously; dead hair stays trapped in the coat | Frequent brushing down to the skin; detangle early; comb checks in friction areas; keep coat at a maintainable length | Regular trims; safe mat removal; blow-drying techniques | Brushing too infrequently, using the wrong brush (slicker only, no comb check), letting the coat get too long for your routine, “saving grooming for the groomer” | High matting risk. Mats pull on skin, trap moisture/bacteria, and can cause hot spots/infection underneath. |
| Curly / dense coats (high mat risk) | Poodle, tight-curly doodles (some Goldendoodles/Bernedoodles/Labradoodles), Lagotto Romagnolo | Tight curl pattern + density traps shed hair close to skin | Line brushing (section-by-section); frequent comb checks; keep coat length manageable; focus on high-friction areas | Regular grooming strongly recommended; coat shaping; structured maintenance schedule | Assuming curls don’t need brushing, brushing only the top layer, skipping comb checks, bathing without fully drying and brushing afterward | Curl structure makes loose hair knot and tighten quickly. Mats reduce airflow, trap moisture, and drive skin irritation. |
| Wavy / mixed coats (“in-between”) | Many doodles, some spaniel mixes, some poodle mixes | Can both shed and mat; coat density varies; may change with age | Brush several times/week; comb-check behind ears, collar, armpits; trim as needed | Helpful to set a maintenance schedule; trims; guidance on tools and drying | Assuming “wavy = easy,” not checking under the top coat, brushing only when the coat looks messy, ignoring coat changes over time | These coats are unpredictable and often change as the dog matures. It’s common to have matting underneath a coat that looks fine on top. |
| Wire / harsh coat | Schnauzer, Wire Fox Terrier, Border Terrier, Irish Terrier, some mixed terriers | Coarse texture; may have furnishings (beard/legs) that tangle | Comb/brush furnishings; keep face/leg hair clean; check for debris | Shaping; stripping (coat dependent); professional grooming for texture maintenance | Clipping everything short without understanding coat type, ignoring beard/leg mats, not cleaning debris from furnishings | Some wire coats maintain their texture best with specific grooming methods. Dense furnishings can hide irritation and moisture. |
| Oily / water-resistant coat | Labrador Retriever, Chesapeake Bay Retriever, Cocker Spaniel, Springer Spaniel | Coat holds natural oils; repels water/dirt; may have feathering | Brush more, bathe less; rinse/spot-clean when needed; use gentle shampoo when bathing | Occasional grooming for hygiene; ear care support; nail trims | Overbathing, using degreasing shampoos too often, not brushing because “they’re self-cleaning,” leaving wet coat to air-dry thick areas | Natural oils protect the coat and skin barrier. Stripping oils too often can increase dryness, itchiness, and imbalance. |
| Hairless / very short / thin coat | Chinese Crested (hairless), Xoloitzcuintli, American Hairless Terrier; thin-coated Whippet/Italian Greyhound | Minimal coat; skin is exposed to friction, sun, and dryness | Skin-focused routine: gentle bathing, moisturize if needed, sun/friction protection; frequent skin checks | Nail trims; skin support when irritation persists | Using harsh shampoos, skipping sunscreen/skin protection, over-scrubbing, assuming “no coat = no grooming” | Less coat protection means higher risk for dryness, irritation, friction sores, and sun damage. |
| Heavy Undercoat / thick plush coat (subset of double coats) | Alaskan Malamute, Samoyed, Chow Chow, Newfoundland | Extremely dense undercoat; big seasonal shed | Frequent brushing to prevent compaction; ensure coat dries fully after wetness | Professional blow-outs; undercoat maintenance; drying support | Skipping grooming until coat feels “packed,” letting wet undercoat stay damp, brushing only the surface | Thick undercoat traps moisture and heat when compacted. That can drive odor, itching, and skin imbalance. |
Grooming Tools: How to Choose the Right Tool for Your Dog
Once you understand your dog’s coat type, the next step is using the right tools. Most grooming problems don’t happen because people don’t care — they happen because the wrong tool is used in the wrong way, or because the dog hasn’t learned to feel comfortable with the process.
The right tool should make grooming easier, gentler, and more predictable for the dog. It should also match the coat’s structure. A tool that works well on a short, shedding coat may be useless on a curly coat. A tool that works on the surface of the coat may miss tangles and mats close to the skin.
Just as important: grooming tools should be introduced slowly. Dogs can learn to cooperate with brushing, drying, and nail care — but only when the experience stays calm and manageable. If a tool is loud, scratchy, or overwhelming, start with brief exposure and rewards before you use it for real work.
The chart below breaks down common grooming tools, what they’re best for, and which coat types they usually help most.
Grooming Tools Chart (Coat Tools)
| Grooming Tool | What It’s Best For | Works Best For Coat Types | Use With Caution / Not Ideal For | How to Use (Simple Guidelines) | Common Mistakes | Dog Comfort + Conditioning Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Rubber curry brush / grooming mitt | Removing loose hair, dirt, mild stimulation | Short single coats; some shedding coats | Curly/dense coats (won’t reach tangles), heavy undercoats | Use gentle circular motions; stop if skin reddens | Pressing too hard; using on irritated skin | Great starter tool for sensitive dogs because it’s quiet and gentle |
| Pin brush | Light detangling and smoothing; coat finishing | Long single coats; some wavy coats | Tight curls; heavy undercoat (doesn’t remove undercoat well) | Brush in sections, then follow with comb | Thinking a pin brush prevents mats alone | Good “practice” tool because it tends to feel softer than slickers |
| Slicker brush | Detangling; removing loose hair; mat prevention (surface level) | Curly/dense coats; wavy coats; non-shedding coats | Very sensitive skin; short coats (can be too harsh) | Use short gentle strokes; avoid “raking”; follow with comb to confirm | Brushing only the top layer; brushing too hard; skipping comb check | Start slow—many dogs find slickers scratchy. Pair with rewards and short sessions |
| Metal comb (greyhound comb) | Finding tangles close to skin; confirming coat is fully brushed | Curly/dense, wavy, long coats, non-shedding coats | Short coats (unnecessary) | Comb from skin outward in small sections; especially behind ears/armpits | Only combing the top; using comb as the only detangler | Best “truth tool”: if the comb can’t pass through, mats are forming underneath |
| Dematting tool / mat splitter | Breaking apart small mats | Occasional small mats in long/wavy coats | Dense/tight mats; sensitive areas; curly coats (often painful) | Use only on tiny mats; hold hair at base to reduce pulling | Trying to “save the coat” by ripping through mats | If mats are tight to skin, this becomes painful. Often kinder to clip them out professionally |
| Undercoat rake | Removing loose undercoat | Double coats; thick plush coats | Curly coats; thin-coated dogs | Use gently and sparingly; follow coat direction | Overusing until skin is irritated; using on dry brittle coat | Keep sessions short—can feel intense. Reward calm tolerance and stop before frustration builds |
| Deshedding blade / shedding tool | Removing loose hair quickly | Some double coats; heavy shedding seasons | Sensitive skin; thin coats; overuse risk | Use lightly and infrequently; avoid repeated passes | Overusing (causes breakage/irritation), using as “daily tool” | Many dogs dislike the sensation—introduce slowly and keep sessions short |
| Grooming scissors (rounded tip) | Trimming paw hair, face shaping, hygiene trims | Long coats; feathering; non-shedding coats | Wiggly dogs; tight mat areas | Use only when dog is calm; small trims; prioritize safety | Trimming without stabilizing; trimming too close to skin | Practice “scissors near body” as conditioning before cutting. Use rewards and tiny sessions |
| Clippers | Full haircuts; sanitary trims; mat removal | Non-shedding, curly/dense coats | Double coats (not for full-body shaving), fearful dogs without conditioning | Let the dog hear clippers first; use slow passes; keep blades cool | Clipping mats without checking skin; forcing a haircut in one session | Clippers are loud/vibrating—start with sound exposure and rewards before grooming |
| High-velocity dryer / blow dryer | Drying, coat separation, undercoat removal | Double coats; thick coats; curly coats after baths | Noise-sensitive dogs; poorly conditioned dogs | Start far away/low setting; protect ears; keep airflow moving | Drying too close; overheating; skipping drying (moisture trapped) | Many dogs fear dryers. Desensitize gradually and reward calm, or use towel + air dry support when safe |
If your dog’s coat mats easily, your two most important tools are usually a slicker brush and metal comb. If the comb can’t pass through the coat down to the skin, mats are forming under the surface.
Grooming Tools Chart (Nails, Ears, Teeth, Skin)
Use the chart below to understand and compare objects that belong in a grooming toolkit other than coat care tools.
Learn more about dental care at the Dental Care & Oral Hygiene section of Bernie’s University.
| Tool | What It’s For | Best For | Use With Caution | How to Use (Simple Guidelines) | Common Mistakes | Comfort + Conditioning Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Nail clippers (scissor or guillotine) | Trimming nails | Most dogs (when tolerated) | Dogs with black nails; dogs with nail fear | Trim tiny amounts; aim for frequent small trims | Waiting until nails are very long; trimming too much at once | Let dog see/smell clippers first. Pair with treats. Start with one nail at a time |
| Nail grinder (Dremel-style) | Smoothing and shortening nails gradually | Dogs who tolerate sound/vibration; thick nails | Noise-sensitive dogs; long-haired feet (hair can catch) | Touch nail briefly; build tolerance; keep sessions short | Trying to grind too much in one session; skipping conditioning | Introduce sound first at a distance. Touch paw without grinding. Use tiny reps |
| Styptic powder / clotting aid | Stops bleeding if nail is cut too short | Any home nail care setup | — | Keep on hand before trimming | Not having it available | Having it nearby reduces panic and prevents rushed handling |
| Ear wipes / ear cleaner (vet-approved) | Cleaning outer ear + reducing buildup | Floppy ears; allergy-prone dogs; frequent swimmers | Deep insertion; irritated/infected ears | Wipe only accessible areas; stop if painful | Using Q-tips deep in ear; cleaning too often | Pair with rewards. If dog shakes/head tilts or yelps, stop and consult vet |
| Toothbrush + dog toothpaste | Plaque prevention; gum health | All dogs (best daily/weekly habit) | Forcing mouth opening; dogs with mouth pain | Start with touching lips → gums → brief brushing | Waiting for dental disease before starting; brushing too aggressively | Conditioning matters: start with licking toothpaste, then short sessions |
| Dental wipes / finger brush | Easier oral care starter | Dogs new to brushing | Not a full substitute long-term | Use as stepping-stone to toothbrush | Assuming wipes alone prevent dental disease | Great for cooperative care training before adding a brush |
| Tick comb / flea comb | Detecting parasites; removing debris | Dogs in tick regions; long coats; outdoor dogs | Sensitive areas; anxious dogs | Comb slowly through coat; check neck/ears | Only checking when itching starts | Make it part of quick “after walk” routine |
| Hypoallergenic shampoo / gentle cleanser | Bathing while protecting skin barrier | Sensitive skin; frequent bathing needs | Fragranced or harsh shampoos | Use lukewarm water; rinse thoroughly; dry fully | Overbathing; leaving shampoo residue | Introduce bath steps gradually. Many dogs fear water + restraint more than soap |
| Detangling spray/conditioner (dog-safe) | Reduces friction; easier brushing | Curly/wavy/long coats | Heavy residue; skin irritation | Light mist, then brush; avoid overuse | Using it to “solve” mats instead of preventing them | Makes brushing more comfortable; can reduce pulling and resistance |
Teaching Dogs to Tolerate Grooming
Even the best grooming plan falls apart if the dog can’t handle it. Dogs push back against grooming when they’ve learned that it feels uncomfortable, scary, or out of their control. If grooming turns stressful, it usually happens less often. Then mats build up, nails get long, brushing starts to hurt, and each session gets harder for everyone.
That cycle doesn’t mean the dog is “difficult.” It means grooming has become a negative experience.
The goal isn’t to force tolerance. The goal is to teach the dog that grooming feels safe, predictable, and manageable.
A grooming routine works best when you treat it like a skill you build over time:
- Keep sessions short at first, and stop while the dog is still calm
- Introduce tools slowly (brushes, clippers, dryers, nail tools) instead of rushing into full grooming
- Reward the dog for relaxed behavior and cooperation
- Take breaks early, before stress builds
- Practice gentle handling outside of grooming sessions (paws, ears, mouth, tail) so touch feels normal
At home, conditioning matters most for the parts dogs often fear: nails, feet handling, dryers, and restraint. You can build comfort by letting the dog see and sniff tools, hear the sound from a distance, and feel brief contact before you ever try to “get the job done.” With nail clippers or a dremel, progress can look like one nail today and one nail tomorrow. Consistency matters more than speed.
Professional grooming works best when the dog also has a good experience. A skilled groomer watches the dog’s signals, takes breaks when needed, and avoids pushing past the dog’s limit. The right groomer helps dogs stay comfortable and helps owners build a plan that prevents painful matting and rushed sessions. If your dog shows stress around grooming, choosing a groomer who values calm handling and pacing can make a bigger difference than any specific tool or haircut.
Over time, dogs that feel safe during grooming cooperate more. That makes coat care easier, nail and dental routines more realistic, and body checks more consistent. Grooming stops being a battle and becomes part of normal care — which is the best outcome for both skin health and long-term comfort.
General Health Topics
| Image & Title | Information |
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At a Glance Cancer and tumors occur when normal controls on cell growth and repair fail, allowing abnormal cells to multiply and survive. Some tumors form localized masses that are benign, while malignant tumors are cancers that can invade and spread. Not all cancers create a discrete lump; blood and lymphoid cancers can involve bone marrow, blood, or lymph nodes without a single solid mass. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance A dog’s ears collect sound, amplify it, and convert it into nerve signals the brain interprets as hearing. The same inner ear structures that support hearing also help control balance and spatial orientation. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance The immune system is a complex, body-wide network that protects dogs from infections, helps resolve injury, and monitors for internal abnormalities. It also plays a role in regulating inflammation and maintaining tolerance to non-harmful exposures such as food proteins or pollen. A well-regulated immune system allows dogs to recover from illness efficiently and respond appropriately to everyday challenges without damaging healthy tissue. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Inflammation is the body's biological response to harmful stimuli such as injury, infection, or toxins. It involves immune cells, blood vessels, and molecular signals working to repair tissue and defend against threats. In dogs, while acute inflammation is beneficial for healing, chronic inflammation can contribute to diseases like osteoarthritis, allergies, and cardiovascular issues, causing ongoing damage to tissues and organs. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Parasites are organisms that live on or inside a dog, relying on them for survival while often causing harm. Internal parasites infect the digestive tract, bloodstream, or organs, leading to issues like malnutrition, anemia, and systemic disease. External parasites live on the skin or in the ears, causing irritation and potentially spreading infections. Many parasites are transmitted through contaminated food, water, insect bites, or direct contact with infected animals. Preventative care, routine screenings, and targeted treatments are key to protecting a dog’s health. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance A dog’s skin and coat are vital to its overall health, providing protection, temperature regulation, and sensory functions. Healthy skin and a shiny coat are often signs of proper nutrition and care. Issues such as dryness, itching, or excessive shedding may indicate underlying health problems like allergies or infections. Maintaining good skin and coat health is key to a dog’s comfort and well-being, making it an important aspect of overall care. Connecting the Dots |
Health Conditions
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At a Glance Canine Atopic Dermatitis (Environmental Allergies) is a long-term allergic reaction to airborne triggers like pollen, dust mites, or mold, leading to chronic itching, skin infections, and ear problems. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Color Dilution Alopecia (CDA) is a hereditary skin condition affecting dogs with dilute coat colors, such as blue or fawn. It causes hair fragility, symmetrical hair loss, and skin issues due to abnormal melanin distribution in the hair shafts. While there is no cure, CDA can be managed through a combination of veterinary care, omega-3 supplementation, and thoughtful skin maintenance. Connecting the Dots |
At a Glance Cushing’s Disease (Hyperadrenocorticism) is a condition where the body produces too much cortisol, leading to symptoms like excessive thirst, hair loss, a pot-bellied appearance, and increased appetite. It usually affects middle-aged to older dogs. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Demodectic Mange (Demodex) is caused by naturally occurring mites that overgrow in a dog’s skin, leading to patchy hair loss. Unlike scabies, it isn’t contagious. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Ear Mites are tiny parasites that live in the ear canal, causing itching, head shaking, and dark debris buildup. They are common in puppies and spread easily. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Hot Spots (Acute Moist Dermatitis) are inflamed, infected patches of skin that develop rapidly due to excessive licking, scratching, or moisture trapped in the coat. They’re common in thick-coated or allergy-prone dogs. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Hypothyroidism happens when the thyroid gland doesn’t produce enough hormones, slowing metabolism and causing weight gain, lethargy, hair thinning, and skin issues. It’s one of the most common hormone disorders in dogs. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Ringworm (Dermatophytosis) is a contagious fungal infection that causes circular, scaly bald patches on the skin. Despite its name, it’s not a worm but a fungus that spreads through direct contact with infected animals, objects, or environments. Connecting the Dots |
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At a Glance Sarcoptic Mange (Scabies) is a skin disease caused by microscopic mites that burrow under the skin, leading to intense itching, redness, and hair loss. It’s highly contagious. Connecting the Dots |
Blog Articles
| Featured Image Link | Blog Title | Blog_URL_Link |
|---|---|---|
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The Ultimate Dog First Aid Kit: What's in Yours? | https://www.bernies.com/blogs/bernies-blog/the-ultimate-dog-first-aid-kit-whats-in-yours/ |
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Ways To Groom Your Dog In The Comfort Of Their Own Home | https://www.bernies.com/blogs/bernies-blog/ways-to-groom-your-dog-in-the-comfort-of-their-own-home/ |
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How to Make Sure Your Dog's Skin & Coat are Winter Ready | https://www.bernies.com/how-to-make-sure-your-dog-s-skin-and-coat-are-winter-ready/ |
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How to Prevent Injuries with Winter Paw Care for Dogs | https://www.bernies.com/blogs/bernies-blog/how-to-prevent-injuries-with-winter-paw-care-for-dogs/ |
Follow the Research
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